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September 25, 2020 | 20:25 by Danielle Nagase and Renata Mesquita, O Estado de S. Paulo
Brazil now has 14 starred restaurants, nine in Saint Paul and five in Rio de Janeiro. THE Michelin Guide 2020, launched on Monday (25) in a virtual ceremony broadcast from the Copacabana Palace, now has two debutants in the home team with two stars: Ryo from São Paulo and Oteque from Rio, both had a star in the 2019 guide edition The list of one-star restaurants, without new representatives, has lost three houses.
The two-star team now consists of the SUN (from chef Alex Atala) and in Ryo (by chef Edson Yamashita) in São Paulo, and in Gold (from chef Felipe Bronze) and in Oteque (from chef Alberto Landgraf) in Rio de Janeiro.
Chef Edson Yamashita’s Ryo earns his second star in 2020 Photo: Daniel Teixeira / Estadão
THE Tuju, by chef Ivan Ralston, who has held two stars since 2018, closed the doors at the beginning of the pandemic and, therefore, left the list. The space gave way to Tujuína, a more informal and familiar restaurant. Ralston guarantees that Tuju will return, but only in 2022, in a smaller, more intimate place “that makes more sense of what the restaurant had become.”
For the same reason, another major deviation from the list was Olympeby chef Thomas Troigros. A one-star owner since 2018, the Rio restaurant also closed its doors during the pandemic and should not reopen, according to its press office. Kosushi and Tangará Jean-Georges also lost their stars.
The Cook. Landgraf in the kitchen of his new Oteque in Botafogo Photo: João Grinspum Ferraz
Brazil continues without a three-star restaurant, the maximum rate awarded by the prestigious French guide. Check out the full list below.
TWO STARS
Saint Paul
● DOM (Alex Atala)
● Ryo (Edson Yamashita)
Rio de Janeiro
● Gold (Felipe Bronce)
● Oteque (Alberto Landgraf)
A STAR
Saint Paul
● Evvai (Luiz Filipe Souza)
● Huto (Fábio Honda)
● Jun Sakamoto (Jun Sakamoto)
● Kan Suke (Egashira Keisuke)
● Kinoshita (Tadashi Shiraishi)
● Peanuts (Helena Rizzo)
● Picchi (Pier Paolo Picchi)
Rio de Janeiro
● Cipriani (Aniello Cassese)
● Lasai (Rafael Costa and Silva)
Mee (Kazuo Harada)
Bib Gourmand
In anticipation of the ceremony, the selection of restaurants that make up the Michelin Bib Gourmand List 2020, a category that indicates more informal houses, but with a skilled kitchen, which present excellent cost-benefit.
Corquetas do Nit, chef Oscar Bosch’s tapas bar, debuts at Bibi Gourmand Photo: Tiago Queiroz / Estadão
Ten restaurants made the list. In São Paulo: AE! Cocina, Ama.zo, Banzeiro, Cepa, Pond, Kith 2nd Floor (which closed the doors in the pandemic), Nit Bar de Tapas, the more informal home of Catalan chef Oscar Bosch, and Più Iguatemi. Didier and María and the Ox enter from Rio de Janeiro. See the full list of the 39 Bib Gourmand 2020 restaurants here.
Virtual ceremony
Due to the novel coronavirus pandemic, the awards party was held without an audience and was broadcast live on the Michelin Guide channel on YouTube – presenter Didi Wagner was the master of ceremonies.
The transmission, which lasted just under an hour, was attended by the World President of the Guide, Gwendal Poullennec, directly from Paris, which took advantage of the space to commemorate the death of chef Pierre Troisgros, respectively father and grandfather of chefs Claude and Thomas Troigros, this Thursday (24).
The international connection also featured videos from renowned chefs from around the world, who sent a message of strength in the resumption of the sector; among them the Spanish Joan, Jordi and Joseph Roca, from the award-winning El Celler de Can Roca, Elena Arzak and her father Juan Mari, who run the three-star Arzak, and Mauro Colagreco, from the French Mirazur, currently the best restaurant in the world in the ranking 50 Best.
The show had the participation of some chefs from Rio de Janeiro, who cooked live from the hotel itself, preparing dishes for the presenter. Among them, Katia Barbosa, from Aconchego Carioca, Elias shramm, in front of Pici Trattoria, Brasserie Mimolette eo grego Oia, e Aniello cassese, chef at Cipriani, who earned his first star in 2019.
For the first time, in the six editions published in the country, the prestigious guide will not have a printed edition, but it will be accessible in its entirety for free in the Michelin Guide 2020 application.
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