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For many Lithuanians, Rundale is associated with a magnificent palace of Baroque-Rococo architecture, giant flower gardens all around, and a French-style park. However, in the immediate vicinity of Bauska, there are places that many travelers miss unnecessarily. For example, did you know that for 12 euros you can spend the night in the 15th century Bauska Castle?
In the very center of Bauska, on a hill where the rivers flowing from Lithuania – Mūša and Nemunėlis intersect, stands a magnificent recently renovated fortress of the 15th century Livonian Order. The residence of the Kettles of the Dukes of Kurzeme and Žiemagla, built at the end of the 16th century, was connected to it. It is the only castle in Latvia that reflects the architecture of the Renaissance and Mannerism in the former Duchy of Curonian.
Bauska. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
At the castle we were greeted by a guide dressed in the traditional clothes of the castle attendant, who accompanied us throughout the visit to the fortress. Bauska Castle now features impressive historical exhibits and themed exhibits. Here you can see what clothes the dukes and duchesses and their relatives wore in the 16th-17th centuries, what their daily life was like, their life and even what the moments of their intimate life were like.
Bauska. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
Some of the ruins of the old castle have also been preserved, and even authentic multicolored glazed ceramic tiles have been preserved inside. By the way, you can only get on them with special, soft booties prepared for visitors, thus preserving the unique history of the castle.
Bauska. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
However, the most surprising thing was that after the remodeling, the castle was also adapted for artist residences. For example, one night costs € 12 per person and can accommodate 12 people at a time. True, the residence was established to promote the creative activities of musicians, actors, miners and representatives of other creative professions (Pilskalna str., Bauska)
Bauska. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
Precisely restored water mill
The Pilsrundale Mill, located right next to Bauska, was built in the 18th century and belonged to the Rundale manor house, but over time it was even destroyed by two large fires. In 1928, the mill was bought at auction by local businessman Voldemars Bergmanis and elevated to a new job in ten years: there was not only a grain mill, but also a generator to produce electricity. However, during the Soviet era, all properties were nationalized.
Pilsrundale Mill. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
More than half a century later, the mill was reclaimed by fourth-generation members of the Bergman family. Vladislav Bergman, who welcomed us to the mill, welcomed the precisely restored mill: the mill’s preserved metal and wooden mechanisms on its four floors still function, but now they only serve a decorative function. “This mill is important to me because it is the complete story of my family,” Bergman said.
Pilsrundale Mill. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
Behind the reinforced concrete walls of the mill, two connected rivers, Islice and Berstelė, are dammed. The walls of the basement of the mill are equipped with drainage, without which the water would harden through the walls. “They didn’t fight the water, they have to befriend it,” said the current owner of the mill, V. Bergmanis.
This mill is now a family museum, conference room, and brewery, which is currently under construction, but should be operational within a year.
High-level gastronomy is the land of Latvian cheese and wine
When you arrive in the Bauska area, don’t miss the opportunity to experience a high level of gastronomy. Ieva Dūmina, winemaker and oenologist, is located in the town of Jauncode, where her natural wine made by hand from various berries is matured. Wine tastings can be ordered in the cellar, during which Ieva will introduce you to the history of Latvian wine production (Zstarnu str. 4, Jauncodė).
Rezidence restaurant. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
The Bauska area is also famous for its cheeses. An example is the Celmu family dairy. Here several types of curd cheeses are made: sweet, smoked and with a variety of spices. “The cheeses are made solely from Latvian milk in accordance with ancient cheese-making traditions,” said host Inga Celma. According to her, for cheese to be good, it must first be high-quality milk, rich in fat and protein. Because the farm is small, the family dairy pays close attention to quality. “About 700 liters of milk are processed per day, not only cheese but also yogurt, cream, curd, butter and desserts,” said I. Celma cheese factory.
Rezidence restaurant. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
When you arrive in the Bauska area, be sure to stop by to taste Latvian cheese. You will find the cheese house in the town of Codė, near Bauska.
As he convinced us after the tastings, where there is a rich culture and history, gastronomy is inseparable. And that turned out to be the case. Our visit to the Bauska area was completed with the highly recommended restaurant “Rezidence”, located right next to the famous Rundale Palace.
Rezidence restaurant. Source: DELFI / Modesta Bear
Here we order mussels in a white wine sauce (€ 12), grilled salmon fillet (€ 14) and Caesar salad with chicken breast (€ 8).
The cuisine of this new restaurant is of a high standard. Both the mussels and salmon were impeccable, and lunch was topped off like in many parts of Latvia – excellent coffee.
And this is only a small part of the pleasures that can be experienced in the vicinity of Bauska. We will definitely come back here again, this is all very close to Lithuania.
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