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In 2011, at Fugas we drew a portrait of Portuguese wine in women and at that time it was difficult to select ten winemakers who prevailed in a traditionally male world. It was difficult because the range of options was already huge. Nine years later, the number of women in the world of wine is even higher.
In fact, the presence of women in vineyards and wineries is ceasing to be a problem. It would be news if the sector remained closed or if it remained ostensibly Marialva. This is not the case, although there are still niches that are too masculine (Port wine is one of them, although, paradoxically, it was the origin of one of the female references in the sector, Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira, “a Ferreirinha”, the first great businesswoman Of the wine). It would also be news if there was a total reversal of power, not because women came to power, but because of the speed of change.
What is happening in wine, as Graça Gonçalves, who is responsible for Quinta do Monte d’Oiro’s wines, summed up, is what is happening in other areas of activity. “Before we didn’t see women in the troop, now we do. Before there were no women driving buses, now there are. (…) Today things happen more naturally. Before, only the daughters or wives of the owners were in the wine. The men only wanted women for the laboratories, that they were there paradinhas ”.
The world of wine has been democratized. If we look again at the growing presence of women throughout the wine chain, it is not to exalt the novelty, it is more to reflect on the dynamics of the sector and the female influence in the renewal and development of Portuguese wine. We repeated some elections, for their pioneering spirit, and again, due to lack of space, we left out many women who deserved public recognition. But each line of this work has the weight and the symbolic desire to bow before all of them (and also before them, to be politically correct!).
