What do the shoes and dresses of the ladies of ancient Kaunas say?



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The exhibition “Trusted memory: people, objects and their stories” invites us to remember how the temporary ladies of the capital dressed and dressed and to listen to what their descendants say about the details of their clothing.

Personality colors

Psychologists say that by opening the closet door, we open a window to the inner world of man. The clothes and other accessories used are visual codes that speak not only of our lifestyle, but also of our desires or fears. What do interwar Lithuanian women say about the surviving details of their lifestyle? Were the Lithuanians brave, did they love to experiment or were they interested in fashion innovations? Or maybe they followed the traditions, dressed conservatively?

Foreign fashion magazines subscribed by wealthy families – Paris Mode, Modenschau, Revue des Modes – an overview of the latest fashion trends in Lithuanian publications, extensive advertising of goods and services, tempting to create a certain lifestyle, even debates and symbolic fashion cuts talked about Lithuanian women’s interest in fashion and desire to keep up with the modern western world.

Clothes sewn from fine fabrics changed the hosts and sewn several times.

Surviving interwar clothing testifies to Lithuanian women seeking elegance and style, whose wardrobe was dominated by single-color garments or printed materials with fuzzy patterns and boxes, and matching accessories. The clothes were dominated by black and white, blue and white color combinations.

Summer dresses are sewn of cotton, chintz, artificial silk. It was fashionable to wear a white cape or collar next to dresses, and to tie the waist with a narrow strap. The color of the dress also determined the choice of hat and gloves. Elegant summer gloves are usually woven from thin threads, linen or cotton.

Stylish accessories

Other highlights of the clothing are shoes and a handbag. In the interwar period, the most beautiful shoes were said to be black and the best – Czechoslovak. And so that the shoes did not get dirty when walking through the streets of Kaunas, special galoshes were imposed, which, by the way, were also very popular with men. Algirdas Markūnas donated one of those Czechoslovakian galoshes that Felicija Šomkaitė, a bank employee, was able to put on with her shoes and attend the party without getting wet even in the rain.

Style: bag embroidered by historian M. Urbšienė

The exhibition also includes some bags donated to the museum. One of them is a multi-colored bag, which belonged to the Kaunas political elite circle, an accessory embroidered by the hands of the well-known wife of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, the historian Marija Urbšienb. It was donated to the museum by Professor Vytautas Landsbergis.

No less interesting is a small palm wallet made of silver in Klaipeda at the Samuel Edelstein silver factory, which belonged to the textile artist Genovaitė Vaškelienė. It was donated to the museum by Birutė Garbaravičienė.

Silver: palm wallet, owned by textile artist G.Vaškelienė.

We can see that the colors and shapes of the bags were very different. The fashion bag was an exclusive accessory that every woman wanted because it had a special meaning. After all, it contains almost half of a woman’s life: perfume, lipstick, a mirror and a comb, and where else – a handkerchief, headache tablets, business cards and a miniature notebook and others. small things.

The story of Vilūnė Bučinskien sobre from Kaunas about her mother’s bag sounds joyous: The hostess only took it out of the closet on special occasions: to the theater, concerts, various anniversaries and other important gatherings. It has been used for many years. “

Universalioji movement

Besides the garments that are perfectly recognizable to us – dresses, blouses and hats – in the exhibition you can see those garments that are no longer used today. For example, embellished fur sleeves, which protected women’s hands from the cold during the cold season.

Accent: the partner of the housewife Marija Jurašaitienė. XX a. 1-2 decades.

The sleeves also represented a small purse: a pocket sewn inside could contain money, perfume or a handkerchief.

Ramūnas Janulaitis from Kaunas, who donated items from the grandparents of Vytautas Magnus University legal historian Augustinas Janulaitis and artist Alena Janulaitienė to the museum, said: “My grandmother A. Janulaitienė was an elegant and beautiful woman. She was tall, 172 cm tall. One of these couplings, gray, was her, and the other dark, brown, was her mother, Marija Jurašaitienė. Couplings were fashionable not only in the interwar period but also before the First World War. , a secret pocket was sewn on them … But later, already in the Soviet era, as far back as I can remember, Mamuliuk had knitted winter gloves, he no longer used sleeves, that era was gone.

Although we see a number of women’s clothing and accessories in the exhibition, little clothing remains from the interwar period. Clothes sewn from fine fabrics changed the hosts and sewn several times. Some of the valuable interwar textiles were also destroyed due to poor home care.

The stories from the exhibits revealed that most of the authentic clothing that survived and reached us (christening clothes, wedding dresses, party dresses or shoes) was preserved due to their symbolic significance. Perhaps after opening a grandmother’s closet, you don’t know what to do with clothes or accessories that have gone out of style. Do not rush to get rid of them, check with museologists first.

Summer decor

Vilūnė Bučinskienė from Kaunas tells about her mother’s dress: that the speckled fabric looks good on everything. She was dressed in opaque cotton undergarments, as usual, and was girded with a narrow black strap. The dress was initially short-sleeved, but once failed, the sleeves accidentally broke one sleeve. it had to be pulled down and the dress continued to be worn. “

Clothing: guipure blouse by pediatrician Elena Miknevičienė and dress by dentist Janina Michelevičiūtė-Veličkienė.

Photo by Justina Lasauskaitė



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