Uphill: don’t bother me, I smell how I want

I rarely write about women’s perfumes, despite the fact that there are no men’s and women’s scents for a long time: I’ve written about it and I will write about it; It’s just a distribution for marketing purposes, introduced in the United States about sixty years ago to sell more perfume to men who are shy because of their sexual orientation and fear considering them gay if they smell. There aren’t many men like that anymore, and that division is artificial. In the same way, there is no male or female wine (but bobic literature and bobic magazines sadly still exist, but here’s another topic, this section is about perfumes).

Therefore, Vilhem Parfumerie’s Do Not Disturb perfume is not cheap, but not cosmic either: a 100ml bottle in Lithuania will cost a little over 200 euros, similarly not in Lithuania. Mark as feminine.

Official Caption: Hollywood’s Golden Age, Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra, Drugs and Sex, Creativity Without Borders, and Glory to Those Who Survived. Maybe, but I read completely different promises and keywords in this perfume.

It is difficult to see why they are classified as feminine: maybe because there are enough tons of flowers (there is nothing wrong with them; some men’s perfumes also have a lot of flowers, there is a Givenchy Insense, and I will write about them sometime, they are masculine, and there are single flowers, flowers and flowers again). But women are likely to like them: no tobacco, no tar or gunpowder, sweat and worn saddle skin, everything is easier and more beautiful here.

The Do Not Disturb perfume opens with cloves and black currants, yes, the same ones that professionals like me smell like Cabernet Sauvignon grape wine (in the science of perfumery I am a self-taught, and here I have studied wines professionally). Black currants, currant jam and crushed currant leaves. I don’t know of any other berry festival unless there are other wonderful classic Christian Dior – Poison (1985) feminine perfumes that have just cut with a wonderful blackberry scent.

It’s a fiction by senior guitarist Jean Guichard, who also featured Calvin Klein’s Female Obsession (from the same year, and I’ve been writing about Male Obsession at DELFI, as well as Concentré D’Orange Verte (Hermes), which I will also describe someday, because there is nothing more sacred in perfumery than noble, sugar-free citrus.

Do Not Disturb continues to play with carnations, those not-so-fantastic flowers our men are used to giving away until March 8, but that scent is so integral to the overall bouquet that even I can smell carnations and nothing. And in the drying season there is vetiver (expensive hotel soap, Indian herb) and papyrus. Papyrus, an herb from Egypt, is mine, because in our home in Vilnius, when I was a child, we grew a papyrus brought from France, and for me, that herb was not just a story from Egyptian scriptures.

The scent of Do Not Disturb is complex, frivolous, and full of rich-world associations. It has a lot of classic beauty and elegance, and I can understand how it relates to Hollywood’s golden age. It is like a champagne for one hundred euros, the difference of champagne for twenty-five euros will only be understood by the trained nose and palate. Fantastic perfume. Buy and smell, because what is two hundred euros? Pay for a couple of hours. Happy New Year.