Lithuanian Adventures in Svalbard: The Pyramid of the Abandoned Soviet City and the Thriller Seen by Slava

Read the first parts of the story here:

As long as we still have the rifle we must have to get out of town, we can detour out of it so feel free to hike up to Longyearbyen glacier and find plant fossils in its back moraine (usually a rock cliff on the edge of the glacier ). We have a lot to bend over and inspect the stones, but what we were looking for is what we found.

The petrified leaves and branches show that 25-100 million years ago the climate here was completely different, swamps with deciduous and coniferous trees and shrubs flourished. Now these stones will become great memories; no matter how much you find, you can carry them in your backpack and take them home, nobody forbids it.

True, Constantine later noticed a pile of stacked rocks, which also contained many fossils, so if you couldn’t find it yourself, you could freely grab it. By the way, the charcoal itself is also of plant origin. As for the extremely distant past, it is also worth mentioning that even in some places in Svalbard, remains and traces of dinosaurs have been discovered.

Dragging heavy stones to the hotel, we joke that you have to get in any car, drive to the hotel, drop the load, and then drive the car and no one will notice. Of course, we did not do that, but it is worth emphasizing that the machines in Longjyrbiene are not only left unlocked, but even with the keys in the lock. In Barenzburg, on the contrary, vehicles are blocked. It’s probably a question of mindset.

Leaving the heavy stones at the hotel, we went to return the rifle and visited the Longyearbyen Museum. Modern, reviewing history, nature, mining, residents of the town. We spent the night relaxing in a hotel; we don’t want to sleep tomorrow.

A barely beating pyramid belonging to the Russians

The main target for the day is the Russian-owned Pyramid coal mining settlement. It is true that the last loaded wagon left the mine in 1998. The city has been abandoned for some time since then, but gradually the number of people visiting and living here is increasing.

First stop – Nordenskiold glacier.

The guide says the polar bear has been spinning here for a couple of weeks and if we are lucky we may be able to see it. Unfortunately, the plans and wishes of the white coat do not match ours.

The crew once again invites tourists to chunks of ice captured with whiskey or fantasy. Whale again. On the opposite side of the bay, a pyramid-shaped mountain rises into the sky. It is at its feet that a few decades ago was the prosperous and now barely pulsating town of the Pyramid.

We arrive ahead of schedule, so that no one receives us. After jumping overboard, the crew moored the ship to a lost wooden pier, to put it mildly, that was not secured. Soon a bus arrives and our guide, Julija, whom we met in Barenzburg, explains that we would not stray from it during the two-hour tour, and demonstrates the safety of the signal gun attached to the belt. We have already returned the rifle, so we have to follow the rules.

The guide explains that we would not stray from him during the tour and demonstrates the safety of the signal gun attached to the belt.

The pyramid in 1910. founded by the Swedes and in 1927. sold to the Soviets. At the time of its prosperity, the city housed more than a thousand people, five years ago only a few workers cared for it, and now between twenty and thirty; more and more tourism requires more staff and Tajiks are repairing buildings.

Julia says that in those days only people who were in good health and passed psychological tests came here: “the best of the best.” According to her, all the people here believed and built true communism. The young Russian Slava from Oslo, whom we met on this trip, replies that it is cheap to build communism in the community of the elect.

In those days, only people with strong health and psychological tests came here: “the best of the best.”

Paradoxically, today this almost uninhabited city seems much more orderly than Barentsburg, with a population of half a thousand. We inspect the old canteen, then walk along the wide path, known locally as the “Champs Elysees”, towards the sports and cultural complex. The guide advises us to protect ourselves and not climb the grass; During the Soviet era, it was specially brought here from Ukraine and planted to create the most pleasant image possible for the population.

Lenin, the northernmost sculpture in the world, and at the same time the northernmost sculpture in the world in general, watches our group in orderly movement and Tajiks imitating work in the corners.

The movie theater is still suitable for use and a film festival is held in the fall. In the gym, Konstantin and I hit the basket and played one on one. Who won, I will hide.

Leaving the Palace of Sports and Culture, Julia points to the hill where the main mine was, and at the bottom is the building where the KGB was located. The guide jokes that when the Soviet Union collapsed there, the documents were ecologically disposed of through the chimneys.

Constantine provocatively asks what is the goal of the Russians here now. Julia bluntly replies that the travel agency has been instructed to settle here too, just to be Russian. After all, this archipelago did not belong to anyone before, and that signed Svalbard treaty is “just paper” … Sounds a bit scary, doesn’t it? It is probably worth recalling here the ideas expressed by Putin that his country will actively defend Russian rights in foreign countries.

Julia bluntly replies that the travel agency has been instructed to settle here as well, just to be Russian.

After all, why was it decided to leave this settlement? Julia says the following reasons have emerged: Coal mining has become unprofitable and unprofitable, Moscow’s funding has fallen dramatically since the collapse of the Soviet Union, a large, long-lasting fire broke out in a mine in the decade 1970s (continues to this day!), a huge psychological crisis. struck in 1996. a plane crash that killed nearly a hundred workers who flew into the pyramid.

Julia announces that the tour is over and the bus takes us back to the marina. We noticed four kayaks stretched out on the shore – travelers had to get there alone from Longyearbyen.

As he sails back, the guide summons everyone on deck and shows the sea lions lying on the shore with fangs gleaming in the distance. It seems a benchmark of slowness and clumsiness.

A thriller seen by the Slavs

The next day we did not tear down the mountains, we bought souvenirs and in the evening we met Slava at the hotel, the aforementioned Russian who lives in Oslo and who sailed to Barenzburg that day. With unbearable joy, he begins to tell what thriller he was watching from the ship that day. Although we are not witnesses to this fact, I cannot remain silent.

As we sailed towards the Esmark glacier, a group of people could be seen from afar moving ashore. When the ship’s crew approached, all the sailors noticed a polar bear walking a hundred meters from that group of people. They are not visible. The direction of human movement is exactly the direction of the bear. The captain understands that in this case an audible signal cannot be given, it can scare the bear and then make it unpredictable.

The direction of human movement is exactly the direction of the bear. They are not visible.

Everyone is trying to clink their hands, the captain spins the boat’s wheels so that only travelers on land will notice and understand that something is wrong. Finally, the crew manages through binoculars to find out which guide accompanies that group of tourists, manages to contact him through a walkie-talkie, and everyone watches with relief how the people who have just been in danger of death withdraw from the bear.

This is our trip to Svalbard. For me, it was another return to the beloved north, Constantine’s first trip, but it seems like it’s not the last: we are interested, looking, reading about other lands and choosing the adventures that await us in the future.

And if readers have questions or want advice, they can contact us on Facebook:

http://www.facebook.com/zilvinas.idomaitis/

https://www.facebook.com/konstantinas.pciolkauskas