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The UN has included Singapore’s street food on a list of intangible cultural heritage
SINGAPORE – Once seen as humble members of Singaporean society, cooks in the city’s bustling “street vendor” centers are rejoicing this week after the United Nations recognized their food as a cultural treasure.
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) on Wednesday approved the country’s bid to include its street food on an intangible cultural heritage list, which also includes yoga, Chinese calligraphy and Flemish.
“In the past, being a street vendor was a job that was despised, it was seen as a beggar’s business,” says Ng Kok Hua, who sells traditional fried delicacies from his small stall.
“And now it is not, now the culture of street vendors in Singapore is recognized worldwide.”
The city-state is full of open-air food courts where vendors serve delicious and cheap dishes.
At the same food center as Ng’s stand, for example, you can buy Michelin-recommended Hainanese chicken rice for around Sing $ 5 (US $ 4).
On its website, UNESCO noted that Singapore’s diverse population of ethnic Chinese, Malays, Indians and other races inspired the culinary creations of street vendors.
“Many (street vendors) specialize in a particular dish, refined for many years, and pass on their recipes, knowledge and skills to the youngest members of the family or apprentices,” he added.
Ng’s stand is an example of this: it was started by his father, according to local media, and is one of the few places in Singapore that still makes “ngoh hiang,” spiced mince rolls wrapped in tofu.
“Street vendor culture is something that is not elite, it belongs to the people, so I think it is something that all Singaporeans can celebrate,” says Pasha Siraj, whose stand serves modern Indian cuisine.
Humphrey Lim, a Singaporean who enjoys his lunch at the food court, agrees.
“For Singaporeans, this place has more value than Botanical Gardens (a UNESCO site in Singapore) because most Singaporeans come here daily or weekly to eat the food.”
Gaining recognition “has been a long but fruitful journey,” Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong wrote on Facebook on Wednesday.
“The greatest thanks must go to generations of street vendors for nurturing the stomach and spirit of a nation.”
