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The mantle that hangs over Oregon is literally breathtaking.
Smoke from forest fires is a suffocating veil hundreds of kilometers long and it is impossible to escape.
It permeates in a remarkable way, even alarmingly, in the cabin of the planes that descend to the Portland airport.
Molalla in Oregon is a ghost town due to fires
It’s a reminder of how unprecedented these fires are in the Pacific Northwest. One of the states most blessed by nature, now it suffers the wrath of nature.
Tens of thousands of Oregonians have been driven from their homes. Hundreds will find those missing houses when they return. Dozens are still listed as missing. 31 people are confirmed dead in three states: Oregon, Washington and California.
The landscape is haunting. A yellow mist covering everything. Ghostly figures emerge and vanish. It’s an eerie backdrop for communities that are now on edge.
Stories of heartbreaking losses are beginning to emerge in Oregon, of those who were unable to escape the flames. Tragically, there will be many more of those stories in the coming days.
In Molalla, a town under evacuation orders with a huge fire at the door, some hardy locals have been left behind. Ashley Bentley gathers volunteers to distribute supplies to those in need.
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“We are a bit rebellious,” he said. “We can’t just sit around doing nothing, so we have to get our hands dirty.
“I think everyone is scared, fire scares people, but I think we have hope.”
Just down the street, a row of broken pianos sits on the pavement, adding a surreal touch to Molalla’s feel as a ghost town.
Police have urged people to stop spreading rumors of looting and arson. But while we were in Molalla, a man was arrested on suspicion of robbery in a building that had been evacuated. A man is also in custody charged with starting one of the largest fires in the southern state.
The president will cross the border in California on Monday. He has always dismissed the role of climate change in these increasingly intense wildfire seasons. It puts you at odds with many who are grappling with reality.
Better weather and a rain forecast are bringing some comfort to Oregon, but it will take a massive recovery operation to rebuild lives.
And until the smoke is lifted no one will feel comfortable.
