WASHINGTON – The Trump administration is weighing a ban on some or all of cotton products from China’s Xinjiang region, a move that could come as early as Tuesday, as the United States appears to be punishing Beijing for human rights abuses, three people familiar with the matter said.
The potential ban, which could affect extended wear and other products, comes amid widespread concerns about the use of forced labor in Xinjiang, where China has cracked down on largely Muslim minorities, including mass detention campaigns.
The scope of the order remains unclear, as to whether it will cover all cotton products shipped from Xinjiang or China or potentially expand goods containing Xinjiang cotton and whether it is shipped from third countries.
But any move to block cotton imports could have a huge impact on global apparel producers. Xinjiang is the main source of cotton, textiles, petrochemicals and other commodities that feed into Chinese factories. Many of the world’s largest and well-known clothing brands rely on supply chains that extend as far as China, using cotton and textiles produced in Xinjiang in the far west of the country.
Studies and news reports have documented how groups of people in Xinjiang, especially the Muslim Uighur and Kazakh minorities, have been recruited into programs that assign them jobs in factories, cotton farms, textile mills and general jobs in cities.
As the presidential election approaches, President Trump has taken a hard line on China, blaming Beijing for allowing the coronavirus to spread around the world and wreaking havoc on the American economy. The Trump administration has stepped up pressure on China in recent months, imposing sanctions on dozens of companies and individuals over human rights violations and national security threats in Xinjiang.
The new ban could spell doom for major apparel brands from China. Amid a protracted trade war and growing tensions between the United States and China, many companies have considered relocating apparel supply chains to countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh and Indonesia. But some have found it hard to imitate China’s quality product, or face stiff competition for factory space.
The move, called a redemption order, is aimed at the U.S. Will be issued by Customs and Border Protection. The agency has in the past issued such sanctions against individual companies that it suspects of using forced labor in Xinjiang, but it is taking further action against a wide range of goods. Consumers and Border Protection did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
In July, the Trump administration blacklisted several apparel companies, barring them from buying American products, citing the use of forced labor in Xinjiang. The list includes current or former suppliers to major international apparel brands such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Hugo Boss. Some of the listed Chinese companies and the major international brands they supply pushed for the move, saying they found no evidence of forced labor or other abuse in their supply chain.
The opaque nature of the Chinese supply chain, where it can be difficult to find exactly where cotton is sour, has forced companies to discuss whether the opaque nature of the Chinese supply chain can be difficult.
