Hotel Yan: Delicious Jalan Besar Excavations, Travel News & Highlights Stories



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SINGAPORE – An excursion to the other side of the border; leave my bags in a new hotel; a whirlwind of lunches, naps and never feeling hungry because 24 hours is not enough time for all the good food.

Before Covid-19 hit, this was my annual Johor Baru getaway. With borders closed, I find similar adventures in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Jalan Besar, with a stay at the Yan Hotel on Tyrwhitt Road.

Its name captures the spirit of travel (Yan means swallow in Mandarin) and this motif is repeated in the design of the hotel. Its logo is an elegant bird feather and a metal bird installation adorns a concrete wall behind the check-in counter.

The industrial interiors are a nod to the building’s previous life as a metal warehouse, amid hardware stores that line the surrounding streets.

Some have moved in recent years when cafes like Wimbly Lu and Black Fairy Coffee emerged, says director Eileen Lim, who opened the hotel with her husband in 2015.

The concrete-chic design continues in my superior double with balcony view, which is compact but functional. A narrow balcony with draped reeds adds a pop of color.

Starting at $ 159, the room is good value for money, but it’s best to get to know your bed partner well before sharing the 12-15-square-meter digs.

Bathrooms and shower stalls share a single sliding door, which means that only one can be closed at a time. For the sake of privacy, a curtain separates the bed from the bathroom.

The hotel is lacking in amenities, relying on its surroundings.


The superior double rooms at Hotel Yan are compact and functional, with balcony views. PHOTO SAN: CLARA LOCK

Only street parking is available, and instead of a gym and pool, Ms. Lim says some guests head to the nearby Jalan Besar ActiveSG gym or swimming complex. Wisely, there is no restaurant or breakfast in the hotel. Why compete with all the good food?

Across the street, in a cafe below Hotel 81 Elegance, Dynasty Fried Porridge serves Malaysian favorites like Kuala Lumpur-style Hokkien mee. I order their namesake dish ($ 7) and it comes thick, sticky, and gently charred, peppered with cubes of fried lard.


Fried porridge from Dynasty Fried Porridge (left) and sea bass with cream nori tagliatelle from Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong are among the nearby dining options. PHOTOS SAN: CLARA LOCK

Nearby, Gelato Labo offers a menu influenced by fruits, herbs and spices. One waiter describes her seasonal smoked artichoke and pear compote flavor as “epicurean,” which I interpret as an acquired taste, and I settle for the safest option of navel orange and white chrysanthemum ($ 5). This is refreshing. A cone of lavender ($ 1.40) adds fragrance and flavor.

Everything is very close, so it’s easy to get back to my room for a video call. Wi-Fi is fast and the sockets under the desk are a nice touch.

In the evening, I wander down mural-painted alleys looking for a place to dine and find Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong, who moved from Haji Lane to Hamilton Road this year. I’m impressed by the salty sea bass with cream nori tagliatelle, elevated with paper-thin slices of sour pickled radish and a pinch of tobiko for crunching. At $ 23, it’s good value for money.


Visitors to Jalan Besar can wander the nearby alleys with painted murals. PHOTO SAN: CLARA LOCK

There is too much to eat and too little time. By the time I went out the next day, the lunch crowd had already descended to 88th from the Hong Kong Roast Meat Specialist cafe across the street, with char siew and ultra-crispy roast pork so popular that they sold out every day even during the circuit breaker.

Caffeine fans have already gathered outside Chye Seng Huat Hardware. And the extensive craft beer menu at Druggists draws you in. I’ll be back for another round of herding.

Good date: Hotel guests get a 10 percent discount on food at Black Fairy Coffee across the street, which serves Japanese bento and coffee food.

Where: 162 Tyrwhitt Road

Info: Hotel Yan website

Bedrooms: 69

Rates: A single loft, sleeping one, starts at $ 127. A superior double with balcony view (left), in which the writer stayed, starts at $ 159. All taxes are included.



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