CNA explores Singapore on foot (day 2): a near-perfect meal and in the footsteps of a recruit

SINGAPORE: “This char kway teow is too wet,” commented a regular at Hong Lim Market and Food Center, an empty red plate with stains of eaten food resting in front of him.

Probably after having the best meal of a trip to Singapore, I was in disbelief.

“But usually, that’s the way it is. His version is not bad and it tastes good. He used to come here two or three times a week,” said Lee, 62, who only wanted to be known by his last name. .

“I come to this hawker center just for this char kway teow, nothing more.”

It was easy to understand why – the noodles were the right combination of spicy, sweet and salty. Accented by the crunch of the bean sprouts, the crunchy texture of the lard, and the softness of the cockles, this had to be one of the best Singaporean versions of the dish.

I had tried Outram Park Fried Kway Teow Mee on several occasions in the past, and as we headed straight up the stairs to the second floor of the food court, I was preparing to wait.

READ: CNA explores Singapore on foot (Day 1): The lonely tree and the longest walk than expected

After all, this char kway tea is usually served with a 30 minute wait.

But to my complete amazement, there was no one in line. Fried, served, served. I made fun of my food in less than 15 minutes.

“I had already been sponsoring this position since I was at Outram,” explained Mr. Lee. “After it changed, I couldn’t locate it for a few years. I would give it 9/10, no problem. But I can’t give it full marks, the maximum score would be 100 percent!”

Who was I to argue?

EXPLOSION OF THE PAST

It had been an uneventful walk to Hong Lim Market and Food Center. Fresh out of the hotel, and with less than 30 minutes on the clock, we were greeted by the blasting horn of a car accelerating a few inches from us.

In our morning stupor, my colleague Gaya Chandramohan and I had mistaken the blinking green man across the street for our own step forward to cross. Big mistake.

We were nearly hit by a driver who was alert enough to honk at two tired journalists who had clearly walked too far the day before.

With that sobering incident not far from our thoughts, we spent the rest of the day being more wary of stop signs and traffic lights. Better safe than sorry.

Today’s 28 km route was to start at Harbourfront, where we had spent the night in a hotel, and end at the Expo, where we had also spent the night. Despite the 30 km we traveled the day before, we were surprisingly encouraged. After stretching a bit the night before, the nagging pains were gone.

READ: 110 km, five days, two reporters: CNA intends to explore Singapore on foot

We quickly made our way through Chinatown and the Tanjong Pagar district, enjoying the brightly colored and lovingly restored commercial houses.

There were elements of the past along the way, from an old payphone along Neil Road (we could still make a call) to the Yip Yew Chong mural in a quiet alley off Smith Street, a beautiful scene packed with stunning detail from the Yip’s childhood.

They were legacies from different eras than those in which we were born, but we appreciate them so much.

After checking the House of Parliament, the National Museum of Singapore, and St. Andrew’s Cathedral off our list of must-see landmarks, we charged up to the Benjamin Sheares Bridge.

And there, in astonishing glory, was a mighty sight.

Gardens by the Bay, Singapore Flyer and Marina Bay Sands rose proud above the water. These monuments to modern Singapore create an eye-catching sight and were in contrast to the historic districts we had been strolling through in the morning.

The last time I had this sight while on foot was when I was a National Service recruit, many moons ago. It was in the middle of the night, he was in green, sweating and marching.

Funny how life has a way of completing a circle.

PAIN BEFORE PLEASURE

The hardest part of our trip on Tuesday was probably the long stretch of East Coast Park. A seemingly benign green spot on the map, it was the opposite.

As the sun began to shine and cyclists began to pass us, we realized why we are probably the only reckless to dominate the stage.

And yet, even as the sun went down and our legs grew heavier, there were still moments of pleasure.

The sound of gentle waves crashing on the beach, the occasional cheers of joy from a young child enjoying an afternoon playing in the sand, and the occasional oasis of cool shade from the trees along the route remind us that this is it. one of Singapore’s favorite playgrounds.

And on a Tuesday afternoon, free from the weekend crowds that flock to the area, it was more pleasant and quiet than I’m used to.

Gradually we find more signs of civilization, but also reminders of a pandemic: benches cordoned off with bright orange tape as a reminder of the times we are in.

And we continued on, refreshed by some watermelon slices that a friend had kindly prepared for us when she was waiting for us halfway during the walk with her two children.

This brought us to our last stop before making the hike to the Expo – East Coast Lagoon Food Village. We had heard of delicious carrot cake and an excellent satay from readers eager to share their food tips with us.

But we were there at 3pm.

We settle for cold shots of sugarcane juice and some excellent BBQ chicken wings. An oyster omelette stand I’d been hearing rave reviews about also opened just as we were about to leave.

I dug inside. It wasn’t a 9/10 char kway teow and but it would have to do.

After all, as we have discovered every day throughout this walk, you gain something, you lose something.