Rakino: What is it like to live on an isolated island in the Hauraki Gulf?



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Man of the Island: Colin McLaren. Photo / Michael Craig

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What inspires a man to abandon city life in favor of isolation? Colin McLaren talks to Juliette Sivertsen about her decision to move to Rakino Island.

Life on Rakino Island moves in its own time zone. The small off-grid island in the Hauraki Gulf has no shops, infrequent ferries to Auckland, and fewer than 20 permanent residents. But that’s exactly the life Colin McLaren wanted, when he decided to move there 40 years ago.

The 77-year-old is the protagonist of a new documentary The Man On The Island, which has just been released in theaters in New Zealand. It is the first post-Covid lockdown film made in New Zealand and follows McLaren and his decision to forgo the comforts of modern life in exchange for something self-sustaining, remote and pristine.

“I thought if everything fell apart in the city, I would have the islands to grow my own food and survive quite happily,” he said.

“I really love coming to the city, but I always intended to have half my life here and half my life there. And I really haven’t made it in the last 20 years because it’s been too difficult and expensive to travel back and forth.” . “And so, somewhat by accident, McLaren now lives a permanently lonelier lifestyle at Rakino.

Colin McLaren, who lives on Rakino Island, is the central subject of the documentary The Man On The Island.  Photo / Supplied
Colin McLaren, who lives on Rakino Island, is the central subject of the documentary The Man On The Island. Photo / Supplied

“Once you’ve seen paradise, why would you look elsewhere?”

Written, produced and directed by Simon Mark-Brown, The Man On The Island is a very human story, a single narrative documentary with no voiceover, just McLaren’s words. It is a personal display of McLaren’s frugal life at Rakino, his dreams and reflections on the world. He was not initially interested in being the lead in a movie, and neither does he do it to promote or attract more visitors to the island.

“It is very difficult to get here. And if people come here, there is absolutely nothing to do but go to the beach.”

Picnic on Hauraki Gulf Island, near Auckland.  Photo / Mark Meredith, Getty Images
Picnic on Hauraki Gulf Island, near Auckland. Photo / Mark Meredith, Getty Images

Born and raised in Otago, McLaren spent some time living in London, but always had an extraordinary fascination and interest in the islands. While living in London, a photographer friend showed him some images he had taken while in Greece, which McLaren thought looked a bit like New Zealand. When he returned to Auckland, he bought 5ha in Rakino and recreated his own piece of Greece in New Zealand.

“I had a responsibility to do something and grow food. And I looked and Greece came back, with the notion of olives, so for the last 40 years I have been growing olives.”

McLaren says that Rakino is unique in many ways, mainly because it is so small. “You get all the weather; if it comes from the west, if it comes from the east, the island receives it. The other advantage is that you are never far from the sea.

“He’s here and he hasn’t gone like Waiheke. It’s still a backwater and that’s how half of the people like it. The other half is somewhat schizophrenic when at one point they want everything for themselves and then decide to sell and want everyone come “.

Remote islands to explore in the Hauraki Gulf

Rakino: Rakino is not easy to visit due to the few ferry departures. Like many of the more remote islands in the Hauraki Gulf, there are no shops, so you will need to bring all your own food if you are staying in a bach. Rakino is also home to the luxurious secluded retreat, Hurakia Lodge.

Rotoroa: Rotoroa is a stunning island sanctuary an hour from Auckland with beautiful beaches, perfect for picnicking, swimming and snorkeling. The 80ha island was once a rehabilitation facility for alcoholics, and is now a restorative sanctuary for wildlife.

Share Matangi: Tiritiri Matangi is a 75 minute ferry ride from central Auckland and is a pest free wildlife reserve for native and endangered birds. It is also home to the oldest lighthouse in New Zealand, which was first lit in 1865.

Rangitoto and Motutapu: These two contrasting islands are connected by a walkway that can be walked in about 3.5 hours in one direction. Rangitoto is an iconic Auckland volcano, and Motutapu a lush ancient island sitting behind it, now a native bird breeding sanctuary.

Great Barrier Island.  Photo / Supplied
Great Barrier Island. Photo / Supplied

Kawau Island:

Kawau is one of the largest islands in the Hauraki Gulf, once a busy mining settlement and now home to the beautiful Mansion House. About 10 percent of the island is owned by DoC, the rest is privately owned. No road access – Visitors must travel to accommodation and attractions by boat.

Aotea / Great Barrier Island: This island is a 30 minute scenic flight from Auckland and is home to one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Aotea Track. It is also a haven for astronomers and astrophotographers, as the entire island is designated as a Sanctuary of the Dark Sky.

Great Barrier Island.  Photo / Supplied
Great Barrier Island. Photo / Supplied

For more New Zealand travel ideas and inspiration, visit newzealand.com

This story was first published in the New Zealand Herald Travel on November 29.

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