Local focus: Tongariro Alpine Crossing is now an opportunity for kiwis

As one of the most accessible of New Zealand’s Great Walks, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is also one of the most popular.

Since the 1990s, the numbers on the track have increased tenfold, to around 130,000 annually, with the snake of tourists who travel the alpine trail and have earned the nickname of “conga line”.

Sam Clarkson, owner of the iconic Skotel Alpine Resort, has been a guide at the crossing since the 1990s.

“In the 1990s we had the 1995-96 eruptions and then in 1998 there was this terrible year of snow,” he said. “Everyone thought, ‘We’re going to have to do better than relying on the ski area alone.’ Many people started to think that the Tongariro Crossing is probably good enough to promote in the summer.

“I think it was probably at the same time on the radar of Lonely Planet and all those quintessential publications that fueled its worldwide backpackers market.”

The avalanche of international tourists meant that on a peak day, up to 2000 people would make their way through the 20 km trail.

With Covid-19 spelling the end of international tourism for some time, it is an exceptional opportunity for those of us who are fortunate enough to live here.

“I think the next two summers are an opportunity for kiwis to experience crossing in a way that they will probably never have the opportunity again.”

Clarkson says there are a variety of impressive hikes in the national park that range from 5 minutes to 5 days, and he rates the Tongariro Crossing as one of the best in the country.

“The crossing is such an amazing hike. There are so many terrain variations and so much history, volcanology and geology. The views are incredible and now you can do it with much less pressure and take your time and enjoy it.”

In stable summer weather, the trail is literally a walk in the park, but in winter it comes with a few more challenges.

“It is much better to take a guided tour in winter because they will equip you with crampons and monitor the danger of avalanches and, in general, they will ensure that you are a) safe and b) fully enjoy the day.”

Connie Norgate, operations manager for the Tongariro National Park Conservation Department, says that if you plan to walk the crossing next summer, following the tracks is essential.

“Enjoy them, but take out the trash, use the restrooms, and generally respect the place, especially from a cultural perspective, and get ready.

“Make sure you do all of your homework before you go. There is a lot of information on i-Site, visitor centers and on the DoC website, there is a lot of information. So be prepared. That is the best advice.”