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Covid-19 is over and we can travel abroad again. That’s what we all want to hear, and for a second, it felt real when I got off the plane at Claris airport.
Great Barrier Island is the perfect combination of Fiji and Niue; Fiji for its beauty and Niue for its small population of loyal inhabitants. The Barrier, as it is known, proudly signals rampant growth and modernization; her counterculture is legendary. A good example is a bright yellow sign with the words ‘Donald Trump’. He points directly to the landfill.
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Great Barrier Island is a mix of Fiji and Niue rolled into one, and you can fly there for less than $ 100.
Most of us go on vacation abroad because we’re looking for a sense of adventure, and I start to feel that the moment I arrive at Auckland airport and board our 42-year-old plane. I fold the chair back and then flop into the third row. One of the pilot’s seats had long burst its seams, with foam coming out of the corners.
I look down to find that each seat has a set of what look like lawn mowers for passengers to wear. “It can be a bit noisy,” explains one passenger, shortly before our plane comes to life with all the grace of a chainsaw.
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Inside our Fly My Sky flight, right after landing.
If you saw me, you’d think I’m a maniac. My smile is so wide that my cheeks hurt. This is what I live for. The last time I had this feeling was in Fiji, when I was heading to a small island, a few weeks before the New Zealand border was closed. It’s great to get that feeling back.
We fly over Waiheke, representing everything the Great Barrier doesn’t want to become, before the sprawling beaches of what looks like a tropical island appear. As we lean heavily to line up with the track, I experience the first of seven magical moments that I will have in the next two days. I don’t see a person, not a single human being, on the beach below. If this were in Auckland, it would be full of designer dogs who would take their owners for a walk.
And here are my other six moments of magic that I experienced in my short stay.
Magic moment # 2
Brook Sabin / Stuff
The Windy Canyon Walkway is the best short walk I have ever done.
Who is in charge of Great Barrier Island? Technically, Her Majesty the Queen. But unofficially, nature rules this place. The island is over 60% conservation land, and its mountainous interior reminds me of the pristine unspoiled forests you’ll find on Stewart Island.
A must-see ride is ‘Windy Canyon’ which is a remarkable short hike to the mountainous center of the island, through huge rocky lagoons in the landscape. It is a bit similar to Hawaii’s ‘Stairway to Heaven’, running through a tall peak. Except for this one, most of the hard work has been done while driving.
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Kaitoke Hot Springs is a 45-minute walk away.
It only takes 15 minutes from the parking lot to get to the first peak, where you get expansive views of what feels like a Jurassic jungle.
But the most popular walk on the island is a gentle 45-minute walk to the natural hot springs of Kaitoke, which boast warm hot springs year-round.
Magic moment # 3
Brook Sabin / Stuff
It’s easy to find a beach for yourself.
The roughly 1,000 locals who call the Great Barrier home are people full of beautiful contradictions. Most hug tourists, but don’t want too many. Most don’t waste the effort using their car’s indicator, but they will always, repeat, always raise a hand to wave to an oncoming vehicle. And they hate fast-paced city life, but most drive fast.
We met Vicky Kyan on an empty beach and like most locals, she has an extraordinary story. Vicky was the first in New Zealand to qualify as a forest therapy guide.
What does that mean? Think of it, this way; We all have those moments when we get out of our thoughts and become aware of the beauty that surrounds us. Vicky helps the mind go there in a much smoother way, showing you how to slowly interact with nature. Her walk and tea ceremony on the beach epitomize what the island represents.
Magic moment # 4
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Despite being relatively close to Auckland, the stargazing was exceptional.
Fast forward 12 hours and we’re tucked in on the beach, under a blanket with a hot water bottle. We’re gazing up at the dazzling night sky with local expert Hilde Hoven, who is equipped with a powerful laser. Next to our comfortable chairs is a telescope, which we stand up to use whenever we find something exciting.
The Great Barrier Reef is officially classified as a Sanctuary of the Dark Sky, and on our remarkably clear night, Hilde takes us on a magnificent tour of the Universe. She points out that our next closest star, after the Sun, is only 4.2 light years away. We take a closer look at the Magellanic Clouds; satellite galaxies to our Milky Way that are more than 160,000 light years distant. Some astronomers believe that our galaxy will eventually absorb them. My mind goes wild.
We are shown the brightest star in the constellation Scorpius, Antares, and we are told that it could explode in the next 10,000 years. When that happens, it will be as bright as a full moon in the sky for three months, and it will even be visible during the day.
As if the night couldn’t get any better, Mars appeared just before our hot water bottles ran out of heat, in time to take a quick look through the telescope before heading home.
Magic moment # 5
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Electric scooters are ideal for the many photo stops you’ll want to make.
The locals like to use wind and solar power to power the island, so what better way to get around than on electric scooters. Motu Bikes is one of the few places in the world where the sun charges your rental vehicle.
The bikes, designed in Tauranga, are especially helpful for the island’s laid-back pace, where you’ll want to get off every few kilometers to snap a photo.
Magic moment # 6
Brook Sabin / Stuff
The Oruawharo Beach House is not just for the rich and famous.
What does a five-star eco-retreat for $ 200 per person sound like? There is no shortage of accommodation on the island, and you will find it much cheaper than Waiheke.
Oruawharo Beach House is an exceptional minimalist mansion located just 50 meters from a secluded beach. It has seen many high profile guests over the years and is surprisingly affordable. Just gather eight friends and it’s yours for $ 200 per person, per night. But make no mistake, this is a place to relax and, like almost all accommodation providers on the island, big parties are not welcome. Go to Waiheke if you want to make a fuss.
Magic moment # 7
Brook Sabin / Stuff
If a wilderness retreat is what you are looking for, the Glenfern Sanctuary has a bird life and extraordinary views.
Getting to Great Barrier is easy and affordable. Fares generally start between $ 69 and $ 100 each way, and the flight is packed with stunning scenery, including Rangitoto, Waiheke, Harbor Bridge, and Sky Tower. We may not be able to travel abroad for the foreseeable future, but this is the best option. Many would say that it is even better.
Brook Sabin / Stuff
Ask a local to show you where to find the mermaid pools.
More information:
Get there: You have two options to fly: Fly My Sky or Barrier Air. Watch: flymysky.co.nz and barrierair.kiwi. The ferry, with Sealink, takes 4.5 hours and starts at $ 75. Watch: sealink.co.nz
Playing there: DOC has a great list of free hikes. Watch: doc.govt.nz/great-barrier-island
Move: Aotea Car Rentals offers exceptional service starting at $ 60 a day. Watch: aoteacarrentals.co.nz. Motu Bikes has electric scooters from $ 20 an hour Watch: motubikes.co.nz
Playing there: WaiOra Wellbeing walks from $ 75 per person including tea ceremony. Watch: waiorabeachretreat.nz. Good Heavens stargazing from $ 120 per person. Watch: goodheavens.co.nz
The author’s trip was supported by Auckland Tourism, Events and Economic Development. This story was produced as part of an editorial partnership with ATEED and Tourism New Zealand. Read more about the content of our association here.
