Latest criticism from wine judge Jim Harre leaves a sour note for Canterbury winemaker

A North Canterbury winemaker is in shock after receiving a “condescending, condescending and misogynistic” message from a top wine critic.

International wine judge Jim Harre told Jess Mavromatis to “give up” and “find a new hobby” after tasting Ekleipsis pinot noir nouveau at Dunedin’s Moiety restaurant in Dunedin on Saturday.

Harre said the Waipara wine was “gross” and “the worst pinot noir I’ve had in years”.

“As an international wine judge living in Waipara, you should be ashamed of yourself. Find a new hobby. Jim, ”he wrote in an email.

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Mavromatis and her husband, Nik, had just returned home after celebrating their 11th wedding anniversary when she received the message.

“I just thought, ‘Are you kidding me?'” He said.

“I would have been completely open to any kind of constructive criticism, but there’s nothing there, it’s more like a personal attack.”

The tone was “incredibly condescending, condescending and misogynistic,” he said.

In addition to putting a severe brake on their wedding anniversary, Mavromatis was concerned about the restaurant and contacted him immediately.

Moiety has stocked Ekleipsis wine since the beginning of the year, and owner Sam Gasson said Harre’s attitude on Saturday was “all that’s wrong with the praise of hospitality.”

Gasson was on duty with his partner Kim Underwood and said that after Harre complained about the wine, they took his glass from him and gave him another drink, as was standard practice.

Underwood then alerted him to an email from Mavromatis, which showed that Harre had sent her the message while she was still sitting at the restaurant table.

Not wanting to ruin his other customers’ evening, Gasson said he was “very restrained” when Harre started ranting about the wine when he left.

But he was angry at Harre’s “old white, privileged and entitled” behavior after he told Gasson that he had judged wine around the world.

“Surely someone in your position should help promote our small businesses?

“I have eaten in restaurants, but he does not give me permission to tell other people what to do.”

While Ekleipsis wine was different from a generic pinot, and might not be for everyone, Gasson maintained that it was delicious and would remain on their shelves.

The spirit of Moiety was to support local producers and educate customers about what was available, he said.

Harre said his criticism had been “personal feedback”, not in a professional capacity, as he would have been charged and the winery had not asked for his help.

“Unfortunately, the wine was, in my opinion, undrinkable,” he said.

“Any buyer will be deeply disappointed as the style of the wine does not seem designed to be consumed two years after production and the bad taste / balance is a reflection of this.”

While the wine was not to Harre’s liking, it was proving popular abroad, particularly in Australia and Japan, Mavromatis said.

Covid-19 meant that it had not been an easy year for the Canterbury company.

“This year has been an absolute roller coaster … it has been difficult to find new markets without travel, so ending this is really disturbing.”

Harre’s message was unfair to all wineries in the region, who were doing their best to promote each other, he said.

“If he wants to talk about it, that’s fine, I’m just completely disappointed in his tone.”

Ekleipsis wines are made from organic grapes grown in North Canterbury vineyards, with no unnecessary additives or treatments.

As such, they are “live wines,” rather than having been homogeneously crafted, all the information Harre could have found on his website, Mavromatis said.

“There is a great international movement for natural wines, made with respect.”