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Dozza is a charming little town in northeastern Italy, towering over the hills with a fortress and colorful drawings on the walls of the house. The works of the Dozzai artists also earned a place on the honorable list of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
In a town in the Emilia-Romagna region, there are only a thousand inhabitants, if we do not count all the characters that the artists have placed on the walls of the house. They can even be the true spirit of the village.
Dozzaselected as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (The most beautiful villages in Italy) is an open-air art gallery. The artists who have come here since the 1970s have become the walls of their houses and return to the village every year.
The biennale has drawn hundreds of contemporary artists to a small town for many decades. The next biennial is scheduled for September next year.
The town is small, with a large number of artists crowded into a few streets. As a result, it really feels like you are passing the art gallery; sometimes only a couple of meters separate one work from another. Only there are no traffic jams, there is not even a safe distance to avoid and outdoors in the Emilia-Romagna area at the moment and no need to wear masks (unless it is at night).
In Dozsa, also worth a visit is Rocca Sforzesca, a medieval fortress with towers, prisons and the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna winery, which presents the acclaimed local wine. I say “probably” because instead of the castle, I chose to sit at a local restaurant with the same wine. There was no time for the will, since the whole journey from Bologna and the return was unexpectedly prolonged.
Although the town is very close to Bologna, it also presents itself as an “off the beaten path” destination for those who spend time in the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, getting there may not be so easy. This time I spent a few days in Italy with my mother, we did not rent a car because the objective was to get to know the city slowly, savor good food and good wine.
However, it had to be remembered that Italian public transport and the information provided on it were not always reliable. Information from Google Maps and the tourist center indicated that Dozza can be easily reached from the Bologna bus station in a single transfer and in about half an hour. Especially since I bought tickets not from a vending machine, but from an employee, to confirm that I would definitely go to that Dozza (after wandering around Germany not to the same city with the same name, a sense of caution on this issue, or paranoia, if you like).
The driver of the first bus even promised to shout where he would have to get off and wait for the next bus. We go out, we wait. After 20 minutes they tried to call the phone number next to the bus schedule, but how much they talked here when the phone was dropped on the other end of the line as soon as they heard the word in English.
It wasn’t until later that I found out that the second bus only works when someone books it in advance. I also faced that in the Faroe Islands. Passengers traveling to remote locations can often be absent for even a few days, so buses only run when necessary to avoid unnecessary fuel consumption. No need to pay more; the most expensive thing here is knowing that you have to do it. An employee at the Bologna bus station probably did not know or was not too lazy to explain.
Photo by Indrė Bungardaitė / 15min / Dozza
Fortunately, the weather was good: an hour from town we walked and walked. It’s surrounded by rolling hills, blue January skies, and closed farms waiting for another season. The entire hike was uphill, although not too steep. A few days later, with hearty Bologna dishes, it could have been neprosal.
Is it worth going to Italy for Dozzos? Definitely not, a good lunch is enough for this town. But when traveling through Bologna, Florence or San Marino, this magical place is worth visiting. By car
PS: While you are in Bologna, it is worth visiting another place that will surprise you but that will not take you long. Here, in an exciting exhibition, a plane flown in strange circumstances was collected from particles. Read more here: Italy has a unique museum dedicated to the enigmatic plane crash.
Currently, the MFA recommends refraining from unnecessary travel to Italy. So for now, let’s read, plan, dream, and if we travel, only responsibly.
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