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His always Italian heart – Pierre Cardin was in Sant’Andrea di Barbarana, a fraction of the municipality of San Biagio di Callalta, in the province of Treviso, in Veneto, but grew up in France, where he took his first steps in fashion and grew to become one of the most important couturiers of the second half of the 20th century, a giant of fashion and design. The heart of Pietro Costante Cardin, born on July 2, 1922 into a wealthy farming family, who ended up in poverty after the First World War, had always remained in Italy. Perhaps among all the couturiers of the last century, born in Italy and raised in France, Cardin was the one who best represented that mixture of styles between Italy and France, the decisive reason for his success.
Brought to France by post-war poverty – The poverty of his family gave young Peter great motivation for the search for redemption. In fact, poverty led her parents to move to France in 1924 when she was only two years old. And at just 14 years old in 1936, young Pierre, whose Italian name, Pietro, had been Frenchified, began his apprenticeship as a tailor in Saint-Étienne. After a brief experience at Manby, a tailor in Vichy, in 1945 he arrived in Paris working first for Jeanne Paquin and then for Elsa Schiaparelli. First tailor of the Christian Dior maison during its inauguration in 1947 (after being rejected by Cristóbal Balenciaga) participated in the success of the master who invented the New Look.
In 1950 his fashion house – In 1950 he founded his own fashion house, experimenting with haute couture in ’53. Cardin became famous for his futuristic style, inspired by man’s early exploits in space. He preferred geometric cuts, often ignoring feminine shapes. She loved the unisex style and experimenting with new lines. In 1954 she presented the bubble dress, the bubble dress. Cardin was also a pioneer in choosing new markets and signing new licenses. In 1959 he was the first designer to open a haute couture store in Japan.
The first to create designer fashion for department stores – In the same year he was expelled from the French Chambre Syndacale, for having launched for the first time in Paris a collection adapted to the Printemps department store. But it was soon reinstated. However, Cardin was a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du
Pret-a’-Porter and the Maison du Haute Couture since 1953 and resigned from the Chambre Syndacale in 1966. His collections since 1971 have been exhibited at his headquarters, Espace Cardin, in Paris, previously at the Theater des Ambassadors, near the Embassy of the United States, a space that the couturier also used to promote new artistic talents, such as actors or musicians.
Like many other designers, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a small group of selected clients and journalists. In 1971 Cardin joined the creation of clothes by his colleague Andrè Oliver, who in 1987 assumed responsibility for the haute couture collections, until his death in 1993. The designer loved worldliness, the world of the jet set, that’s why in 1981 he bought the famous Parisian restaurants Maxim’s. In a short time it opened branches in New York, London and Beijing in 1983 and joined a hotel chain. Among the licenses of the Maxim’s line there was also a mineral water that was collected and bottled in Graviserri in the municipality of Pratovecchio Stia,
Arezzo province.
The passion for real estate – Cardin had seized the ruins of a Lacoste castle once inhabited by the Marquis de Sade. After renovating the site, the designer organized theater festivals there. Cardin had also rediscovered his Italian roots with the purchase of the Ca ‘Bragadin palace in Venice, where he lived during his frequent stays in the city by the lagoon (there is an exhibition space in the next street). In the 1980s he had bought the Palais Bulles (The Palace of Bubbles) designed by the eccentric architect Lovag Antti. Everything from floor to ceiling was filled with spherical shapes. With its 500-seat theater, pools overlooking the Mediterranean Sea used to be the place for parties and events. The interior was furnished with designer pieces, the Utilitarian Sculptures designed by Cardin himself, who since 1977 has given life to a collection of elegant furniture with sinuous shapes. In the Gulf of Cannes, in Théoule-sur-Mer, in the south of France, this architectural work was declared a historical monument by the Ministry of Culture in 1988.
Also a documentary film about Cardin’s life presented at the Venice Film Festival in 2019: House of Cardin by P. David Ebersole, Todd Hughes. A journey that explores in all aspects what many define the Enigma Cardin, given the confidentiality of man, and the ability of the artist and businessman to create an empire, with a value that has exceeded one billion dollars, innovating. with style, linking its name to hundreds of products and with an unmatched ability to export haute couture abroad.
“It all started with 200,000 red coats sold in the United States,” he revealed in the biopic, showing the garments with which he had managed to establish himself in the Soviet and Chinese markets since the 1970s. Cardin “is a total emperor,” he says in the film. Jean-Paul Gautier, interviewed among others, with Sharon Stone, Naomi Campelle, Philippe Starck. Also in documentary fashion and in private life, such as the great loves with André Oliver (who died in 1993 from AIDS) and Jeanne Moreau. In July 2019, also a monographic exhibition dedicated to the “fashion giant” in the United States, at the Brooklyn Museum.
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