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It took the secular coldness of the Michelin Guide to tell the world what everyone knew and no one dared to say: Combal Zero is closed. On the other hand, La Rossa knows how to be poetic in giving space to chefs who cry tears of emotion and fatigue and at the same time extremely prosaic when she announces that 19 restaurants have lost their star due to “closure due to cessation of activity or indefinitely”. And that is why despite the fact that for many months Davide Scabin’s restaurant had actually closed the doors of that short sleeve of glass and light that was the Combal room and that alchemy of technique and feeling that was the kitchen, only now thing is to become true, written in the guide and burned in no places on the web with the lexicon of a chamber of commerce. Like a crooked sign outside a closed shutter, “out of business” or “closed indefinitely.”
Time will tell if it is permanent or temporary, even for an “indefinite period.” But if a few years ago the same guide had taken one of the two stars out of Scabin’s kitchen, turning uninformed readers into what he was not, is not and will never be, which is a cook like the others, raising the indignation of who on the other hand If he had perceived the absurdity of this degradation, today there is no controversy to do. Michelin has played a diligent role as a jealous notary, using their jargon. And so we all receive an envelope with a green postcard that tells us that something is over, that time has passed, dragging the foam of the days with it. There would be a resource, because talent runs down secondary roads and certain intense and magnificent fragments of gastronomy must be tasted with golden forks on glass plates. And above all because that term “closure due to interrupted activity or for an indefinite period” has nothing to do with the Combal within which time has never been “determined”, rather fluid, strange and indifferent to the movements of Swiss watches. or French. But who can we take it out on if Michelin is so bad that it is not a novel?
