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Is one of The most beautiful villages in Italy. And seeing it up there, on the top of the hill overlooking the Garfagnana hills, you can also understand why. In Barga waving the flag of the Orange Flag and, recently, it has also become part of the Slow Cities circuit. In short, this small Tuscan town in the province of Lucca is a gem that deserves to be seen.
Giovanni Pascoli knew him well, fell in love with him and decided to spend 17 years of his life there. Among the places to visit absolutely in Barga is without a doubt Casa Pascoli, in the hamlet of Castelvecchio. The poet has always considered it his second home, the adoptive one, so to speak. As proof of this, he decided to be buried right here, despite having died in Bologna in 1912. Here the poet composed most of his works, including “I Canti di Castelvecchio”.
To pay tribute to his memory, you can visit the adjacent Casa Pascoli chapel. Some of his works are kept inside the house-museum, the furniture remaining as it was. Even the layout of the rooms has not changed since Pascoli used to spend his days there. Very often, the garden hosts musical and artistic events.
The village of Barga, in Garfagnana @ 123rf
Besides Pascoli’s house, the old town (there is also the new town, connected to the old one by an old stone bridge) contains some small treasures. As the San Cristoforo Cathedral overlooking the city from above, whose construction began in the year 1000 and was expanded several times. Of the bells, the smallest, dated 1580, inspired the poet who composed “L’ora di Barga”. And it is precisely from the panoramic terrace outside the Duomo that we witness an incredible natural event.
Here, in fact, you can admire not one sunset but two. It happens, in fact, twice a year, that the alignment of the Sun allows to observe the sunset twice. It usually takes place for three consecutive days on January 29, 30 and 31 and on November 10, 11 and 12. The event takes place behind Monte Forato, in the Apuan Alps, the peak that vaguely resembles a bearded face and stands out just in front of Barga, on the other side of the Serchio Valley.
The terrace where you can admire the double sunset @ 123rf
Well, on those days, the Sun first sets behind a gigantic open arch in the mountain, then the rays disappear behind the arch and then reappear, a few minutes later, giving a second sunset.
For centuries, and still today, the people of Barga, including Pascoli, have gathered twice a year to admire this unique heavenly spectacle. The poet wrote about the 20th century in May 1903: “I often spend my afternoons on this terrace; I see Barga go to bed and I see her up there on the hill, shining like an altar “.
View of Barga @AIGO
The same emotion can be experienced by all who stay at Il Ciocco (which takes its name from one of Pascoli’s poems collected in the “Canti”), an immense completely isolated property where the Renaissance Tuscany il Ciocco Resort & Spa is located. . In this sprawling town, with several antique and antique shops and structures open to all, and not just hotel guests, you walk up a long avenue of olive trees that leads to the top, in almost unreal silence.
In the alleys of Barga @ 123rf
Those who spend their vacations here can enjoy 600 hectares of naturalistic area, more than 42 kilometers of paths and trails, bike paths in the forest and various accommodation facilities, two external restaurants in addition to the one at the resort, which has a wonderful fireplace for the winter and a splendid panoramic terrace for the summer, and a sports villa.
We are in a different part of Tuscany than the one usually shown by the images that run on social networks and that go around the world. IS an alternative Tuscany. Here is the hill, but also the mountain and the landscape changes according to the altitude, passing through thick forests of chestnut and beech, between metati (small buildings, used to dry chestnuts) and tall pastures. altitude, in Prade Garfagnine, a vast plateau on the border with the area of Modena.
In the chestnut period, a great feast is held. Those who love food tours will have something to enjoy. In the surroundings of Barga there are several wineries where you can taste and buy wines directly from the producer, such as Podere Concori, immersed in the vineyards, which produces an excellent Vigna Piezza and a Granada that has received several awards.
The Ciocco @SiViaggia complex
Also excellent are the sheep cheeses and salamis, Slow Food Baluartes, accompanied by potato bread. These can also be purchased directly from the producers. And in the season of mushrooms and truffles, these are also present in all traditional dishes. The resort organizes cooking classes, from shopping in the Barga market together with the chef to preparing the dishes under his supervision. For the best addresses, you can enlist the help of the resort’s Expert Navigator, who provides information on personalized tourist itineraries, to discover the most hidden, curious and fascinating pearls in the area.
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