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But let’s start at the beginning, in 1929.
Giuseppe Cipriani, the bartender at Europa Hotel Venice, prepares cocktails for hotel guests in the evenings. Her favorite is Mr. Pickering, who has visited the bar every day for months with his aunt and her black Pekingese. You can’t go a single night without a multi-millionaire hotbed in Boston closing out the day with a few cocktails and spirits at the Cipriani counter.
However, the state of blessing for both is broken when the head of the family in the United States learns that his young heir is spending the apanase that comes from home to drink without limits and turns off the money tap.
Since Mr. Pickering has no bill of exchange or credit card (it was only introduced by Diners Club for restaurant consumption in the 1950s), Mr. Pickering climbs the stairs that night without greeting, avoiding the source of his pleasures. alcoholics from afar. However, the attention of the bar master does not escape the sad departure of his tip, so he rushes after her and the following small dialogue occurs between them:
Mr. Pickering, are you sick today?
No, Mr. Cipriani.
So maybe you don’t like my cocktails anymore?
Oh no, Mr. Cipriani.
So what is the problem?
Nothing nothing.
Didn’t you just go bankrupt?
But of course, Mr. Cipriani.
Oh, and how much would you need?
You just don’t want to give me money? Mr. Pickering’s veiled gaze shines.
It depends on how much you need.
Just enough to pay the hotel and bar bills, to travel home and spend one last Dry Martini for myself: about 10,000 lira.
Our diligent waiter’s eyes widen a bit, as it is a significant amount (he hardly forgot that he started his adult life for 3 lira a day working 16 hours a day in a bakery), but after a short but strong dialogue with his wife delivers his aid to his favorite guest the next day.
Two years later, Pickering negligently enters the bar, orders a drink, and then hands over the 10,000 lire in the following words:
Thanks, Mr. Cipriani, here’s your money. And I would like to express my gratitude with this additional 40,000 lire. You could even open your own bar from this. How could you call me Harry’s Bar …
As Giuseppe Cipriani’s most cherished dream since childhood is the triumvirate of his own bar-restaurant-hotel, you have the opportunity immediately. In a few days, he and his wife will find the right location in a small hidden cul-de-sac next to St. Mark’s Square, at the 9×5 meter corner of a rope warehouse.
This is enough to house a small kitchen, a bar counter and a few tables in an intimate setting, serving the celebrities who want to hide from the bright splendor and the gaze of the great staff of luxury hotels.
The interior is entrusted to Baron Gianni Rubin de Cervin, who creates a simple and comfortable art deco guest space, and on the exterior of the warehouse building only the elegant Harry’s Bar inscription on the windows indicates the birth of one of the sites of cult of the next century. how
Somerset Maugham, Aga Khan, Ernest Hemingway, Arturo Toscanini, Charlie Chaplin, Orson Welles, Marcello Mastroianni, Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall vagy Truman Capote.
The bar still stands where Giuseppe Cipriani founded it and was expanded by his son, Arrigo. On the ground floor, the tables are even denser, the crowd buzzes, waiters in white coats spin around. Upstairs, however, there is no trace of this atmosphere: elegant restaurant equipment, tourists eating in silence. The same splendor characterizes other Harry’s Bart, such as New York and Buenos Aires.
The name of the millionaire Boston, which has become a global brand, can be found today on hotels, restaurants, pasta, olive oil, coffee and sauce packaging, as well as on book covers and kitchen utensils.
However, the pandemic also did not benefit Harry’s Bar in Venice.
The broken tables, the limited audience would have wiped out the atmosphere of the bar, which is why for a long time they did not even open after the first wave of the epidemic in Venice. This would have been the last nail in the already worn coffin of fame, a few years after star chef and celebrity Anthony Bourdain said about the place:
“The food is quite good, the Bellinik is delicious, but it is quite expensive.”
Of course, we can go cheaper, if we want to try the two views of Harry’s Bar, than to go to Venice. But the preparation of both sights must be inflexible.
Celestial rose
One is Bellini. Like Giuseppe Ciprian, he served one of the famous Renaissance painters Madonna. The beautiful pink of Our Lady’s cape should also appear on the glass (Harry’s Barban gives the cult drink in simple double-decker glasses).
A cocktail of sparkling wine from the region, prosecco, and peach marrow, by definition, cannot be made with yellow peaches, as can be seen in many places.
Only white-fleshed fruit that turns red around the seed is suitable (the Champion variety, which ripens in September, is the best for us).
They can be minced with a mixer, but only slowly, they are more prone to professionalism, they can only make the marrow by peeling, squeezing it by hand and then breaking it through a strainer. If it wasn’t sweet enough, we could enhance it with sugar syrup, if it wasn’t pink enough, we can enhance it with the color of the peeled rind extracted with lemon juice.
It is better to make the fruit cream fresh, but by freezing it, we can extend the number of weeks available to enjoy the Bellini. Spirits and skewers are not required, which in turn is required, chilled glasses, iced fruit marrow, and chilled prosecco.
Another cult dish at Harry’s Bar is the sirloin carpaccio.
This dish also appeared in other Venetian restaurants, but it was first made here with carpaccio sauce in red and white tones, as it appeared in the paintings of another Venetian painter, Vittore Carpaccio.
The dish is based on high-quality raw meat.
Cipriani prefers sirloin to sirloin because of its juiciness. Meticulously cleaned of membranes and tendons meat is never frozen, instead being cooled to zero degrees and then sliced very thin by machine, possibly with a very sharp, long-bladed knife.
The hair-thin slices of meat are then spread out onto a cold plate and sprinkled in a zigzag with mostly homemade mayonnaise, a little Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, a few tablespoons of milk, and a white pepper sauce.
If you want to make a more colorful version at home, place fresh arugula underneath the meat slices and on top of Parmesan chips (according to Cipriani, only Parmigiano Reggiano is suitable for this), then sip light red wine. Or a Bellini …
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