A bookstore that shines as ‘a beacon of a free society’


TAIPEI, Taiwan – In a hushed bookstore in Central Taipei last night, Ju Lee-wen stood under a large black banner saying “Revolution Now!” and lifted her fist in the air.

Ms Ju, a 26-year-old lawyer, is concerned about China’s increasingly authoritarian policies, including tough new security laws in Hong Kong. She went to Causeway Bay Books, an irreverent shop full of parts critical of the Chinese Communist Party, to show her support for democracy in Hong Kong and Taiwan.

“We must fight to protect our freedom and our future,” Ms Ju said.

Causeway Bay Books, which occupies a secluded room on the 10th floor of a dry office building, has in recent weeks become a gathering place for people worried about the future of Taiwan, a self-governing democracy that China claims as their own. As China’s leaders take a sedative approach to free speech and activism in Hong Kong, fears are growing that Beijing may step in to bring more aggressive Taiwan under its control as well.

Hundreds of people come to the store every week to ban books that are banned on the mainland. They include exhibitions on the private lives of Chinese leaders, historical accounts of events such as the Massian of Tiananmen Square, and dystopian novels such as George Orwell’s “1984.”

One book about the powerful leader of China, Xi Jinping, is titled, “The Zombie That Ruled the Country.”

Visitors are under banners calling for independence for Hong Kong and taking part in “Fight for Freedom!” On a wall of colorful sticky notes at the front door, they write vague reviews about China. “Tyranny must die,” says one remark.

Causeway Bay Books has become a symbol of Taiwan’s vibrant democracy at a time when the island is seeking to promote itself as an alternative to China’s authoritarian system. The President of Taiwan, Tsai Ing-wen, recently visited, as well as scores of government workers, students and commentators who are critical of China.

“It’s like a lighthouse of a free society,” said Leo Hong, 38, an employee of a state-owned company who paid a visit last night to buy a book of photos documenting anti-government protests in Hong Kong in the past. year.

The store runs across the line between mom-and-pop store and political war space, with delicate floral wallpaper placed side by side with stinking banners declaring, “Free Hong Kong.”

Many people come to get a glimpse of Lam Wing-kee, the owner and manager, a Hong Kong bookseller who fled to Taiwan last year. Mr. Lam was one of five booksellers abducted by the Chinese authorities in 2015 for selling books that were critical of the ruling party. He was detained and spent five months in solitary confinement.

“He wants to let Taiwanese know what kind of regime the Chinese Communist Party is,” said Chen Tsai-neng, 55, a host of the frequent radio show. Mr. Chen said he often discusses China’s history of authoritarianism with Mr. Lam and other customers.

“He wants to tell people that the Chinese Communist Party and the individuals in power behind this cultural tradition are not trustworthy,” Mr Chen said.

Mr. Lam opened the Taipei store in April, recalling the name of his old store in Hong Kong. From noon to 9pm every day, he walks around the store to recommend books to customers, and regularly slips out to smoke on a balcony. The store doubles as his house; he sleeps on a bunk bed behind a cash register desk.

Mr. Lam said he wants the people of Taiwan to have a place where they can reflect on the challenges facing the island, including China’s efforts to isolate politics.

“Taiwan is unstable at the moment,” he said. “And one thing is clear: China is giving Taiwan this instability.”

The bookstore has its share of critics. Some believe that the selection of books provides a skewed portrait of modern China, focusing too much on negative portraits.

The store has also debated whether Taiwan should accept political refugees like Mr Lam. Ms Tsai and her ruling Democratic Progressive Party have promised more Hong Kong activists to help shelter in Taiwan. Some members of the opposition party, the Kuomintang, are of the opinion that such a move would repay risks through Beijing.

Mr. Lam has become a target. In April, shortly before the store opened, two men attacked him with red paint as he walked to a morning store in Taipei. The men were later arrested.

As tensions with the mainland increase, many visitors say they feel a sense of camaraderie at the store, where they discuss issues such as military policy and whether Taiwan should seek formal independence, a move that Beijing has long opposed . Some are worried about the possibility of a military conflict in which Taiwan would be caught in the middle, if relations between China and the United States continue to deteriorate.

The Chinese government’s decision in June to enact legal national security laws in Hong Kong, giving the authorities broad powers to crack down on a variety of political crimes, has galvanized many Taiwanese to speak out.

“Some think that what happened in Hong Kong is a look at the future of Taiwan,” said Chen Wei-nung, 36, who works part-time for a public opinion polling company.

The collections of sticky notes near the entrance mimic similar displays made by Protestants in Hong Kong last year. There are doodles of Mr. Xi wearing a crown and quotes from Captain America. Ms Tsai, the leader of Taiwan, left a note during her visit that read: “A free Taiwan supports the freedom of Hong Kong.”

Ms Ju, the lawyer who recently visited the store, bought a book about China’s internet checks as a history of Hong Kong’s protests. Before leaving, she stopped to write a message on the wall of sticky notes.

“Freedom forever,” she wrote. “Freedom for Taiwan.”